How to Sew Sarah’s Skirt: Easy Gathering, Pockets, & Elastic Waist Guide

For the skirt I’ve now dubbed Sarah’s Skirt, I started off with about 3.5 yards of fabric.  I cut 4 panels as 24 x 43 inches.  Which is basically, on the fold.

Then I used a pattern piece I had for the pocket.  But that’s an easy one to make.  You just need a flat side and then a curved side to create your own pattern.  See below for my really bad drawing of roughly how you would make your pattern piece.  You’ll typically want to make it about the size of your hand for dimensions.  Make sure you cut 4, it’ll be two together, then two together.  Because that is what makes the pocket.

Once I had all my fabric cut, I went to the serge machine and serged all the edges.

With that done I could assemble all the pieces.

I used a ½ inch seam allowance.

I first matched two of the 4 panels for the front of the skirt.  So edge to edge, and corner to corner, right sides facing.

Then I just sewed a straight line down. 

I did the same thing for the back two panels.

Before I could put the front and back sections together, I had to add the pocket pieces.

But before I could do that, I needed to measure the waist area for where I will be putting the elastic/ribbon band I will be making.

I’m using 1” elastic, so the waist area that I’m folding over needs to be for that size.  So I need about 3 inches at the top of the skirt to remain available.

I put a clip directly below the 3” area and then clipped the first pocket piece to that.  Right sides facing and the flat edge of the pocket against the flat edge of the fabric.

Before I sewed it on, I made sure to measure the other 3 areas where the other pocket pieces needed to be added to.

Then I sewed each pocket piece on.  I sew each pocket piece to the remaining open sides of the skirt.  Basically one pocket piece on each side of the front, and then the same for the back.

I made sure to sew less than the 1/2 “ seam allowance, because I don’t want to show the seam on the outside. 

Once I sewed all the pocket pieces on, I then attached the front section to the back section.  Again, I matched up my edges, and my corners, laying the pockets out flat.  I sewed the 3” down to the pocket area, and then I lifted the presser foot and adjusted the fabric so I could sew all the way around the pocket. 

I came up a little bit on the bottom area of the pocket and created a weird kind of V.  With that done, I could finish sewing to the bottom of the fabric.

The other side is a bit trickier because I have to leave open a section for the drawstring elastic/ribbon.  So I didn’t start sewing until just below the 3” area at the waist, and immediately went into sewing the pocket on.  Then I did the same sewing method of creating the weird V on the pocket and sewing to the bottom of the fabric.

Pockets fully assembled and skirt is all connected, it was time for the waist area.  Since I serged all my edges, I decided that I didn’t need to completely fold over the bottom edge of the fabric at the waist.  So I just folded the 3” area in half.  I did make sure to fold the serged edges under on the side where I didn’t sew the front to back, that way there was space for adjustment and leaving ribbon out to tie.

I sewed that all the way around.

I always like to wait a day before finishing the hem.  So I did that.  When I came back to hem, I just folded the serged edge up once, and then one more time so the edge would be completely sewn in.  Then I sewed the hem.

For the elastic/ribbon drawstring, I took a 26” length of 1” non-roll elastic and then I cut two pieces of ribbon, also 26” in length.  I sewed one side of the ribbon to the elastic with a zigzag stitched.  And I did that a few times.  Then I folded the ribbon over just a smidge and did a straight stitch.  I did the same for the other side.  Since I used grosgrain ribbon, I also folded over the ends and did a straight stitch to prevent it from fraying.

Then I took a pin and put it into one side of the ribbon and fed it through the entirety of the waist area of the skirt.  Making sure to leave the other half of the ribbon area outside the skirt.  Once I got the drawstring fed through, I made a nice little bow tie.  And its ready for wearing!

Ingredients

3.5 yards of cotton fabric (or other fabric of your choice)

Thread to match

At least 26” of 1” non-roll elastic

At least 52” of 1” ribbon (you can use satin or grosgrain for this)

Steps

  1. Cut 4 panels of 24 by 43 inches (basically on the fold of the fabric).
  2. Cut 4 pocket pieces.
  3. Serge the edges of all the fabric cut.
  4. Sew two panels together for the front.
  5. Sew two panels together for the back.
  6. Pin one pocket piece to each remaining side at least 3” from the top edge (two on the front and two on the back), right sides facing.
  7. Sew the pocket pieces on but sew less than the seam allowance.
  8. Sew one side of the front and back panels, making sure to completely sew the pocket pieces together.
  9. Start sewing the remaining side at least 3” from the top edge, making sure to sew the pocket pieces together.
  10. Fold the waist area in half and sew down the edge, making sure to fold over the side edge that you left open when you completed step 9.
  11. Wait a day for the hem.
  12. After one day, hem the skirt by folding the serged edge over once, and then once more.
  13. For the drawstring, cut your elastic and then two pieces of ribbon.
  14. Sew one edge of the ribbon to the elastic, making sure to use a zigzag stitch and stitching several times.
  15. Do the same for the other piece of ribbon to the other side of the elastic.
  16. Feed the drawstring through the waist area of the skirt. 
  17. Tie off with a bow and you’re ready to go!

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